Interteli, together with Italian coffee giant, launches latest research and development "Coffee peel extract"
Intercos, a well-known Italian cosmetics manufacturer, announced that it has established a strategic partnership with Amarey, an innovative startup company under the Italian high-end coffee brand illycaffe. In addition, the laboratories of the two companies have successfully developed coffee active ingredients rich in beauty effects based on the coffee silver skin in "coffee beans", as well as coffee butter creams with multiple beauty purposes such as firming and moisturizing.
illycaffe was founded in 1933 by chemist Francesco Illy and is located in Trieste, a seaport city in northeastern Italy. After years of development, illy coffee has grown into a national brand favored by various Italian industries, with a 7.5% market share and a 30.3% share in the household market. The coffee beans used are 100% Arabica beans as raw materials, and the origin covers Brazil, Colombia, India, Ethiopia and other famous coffee growing regions.
In the case of this beauty innovation ingredient and product, it was jointly developed by the laboratories of Amarey and Intertely, which focus on the research and development of functional products based on coffee. The announcement shows that the cooperation between Yingtri and Amarey began at the end of 2022, and in just one year, the two companies' laboratories adopted an open innovation approach to successfully develop a coffee butter cream rich in active ingredients and with excellent cosmetic effects, and the raw material of the product is extracted from the "silver skin" outside the coffee bean. In short, a coffee fruit has six layers from the skin to the core, the coffee skin is the coat of the coffee fruit, and the coffee silver skin is the underwear of the coffee bean.
A related monogram in the field of food safety and quality testing, "Effects of Primary Processing on the activity of Active Ingredients and Flavor Enzymes in small coffee from different regions", shows that coffee is rich in active ingredients such as flavonoids, polyphenols and polysaccharides, and the content of these ingredients varies greatly between the primary processing and the origin. Coffee in the process of initial processing will produce a lot of peel, parchment and silver skin and other by-products, if the improper treatment, not only will cause a waste of resources, but also cause pollution to the soil, the environment and so on. Previous studies have confirmed that coffee by-products also contain many flavor-related enzymes and active ingredients. Among them, coffee silver skin is mostly used in the field of food health. According to the previous literature analysis, the dietary fiber of silver skin is higher than that of oats, and has the effect of promoting the growth of lactic acid bacteria, and has high antioxidant power. Animal experiments also found that silver skin health care products can effectively regulate body fat and promote the growth of intestinal bacteria. However, in the field of cosmetics, the research and development of coffee silver skin is still in an emerging stage.The bionic cosmetic ingredient based on the coffee silver skin innovation was first discovered in 2018 through a circular bioeconomy project funded by Italian non-profit foundations Fondazione Cariplo and Innovhub, according to Iteri. Interley and Amarey's lab studied the extraction process of silver peel and found that coffee peel is a silvery film that falls off during roasting and has been unused until now. Due to the fat contained in silver skin and its unique chemical and physical properties, it has great potential value in the cosmetic industry. Based on this, they finally succeeded in preparing coffee butter cream.
Although Yingteri and Amarey did not announce the specific technical requirements of the innovative ingredients and products, according to previous research data, the beauty artisans found that Mibelle Biochemistry, a Swiss company specializing in the development of innovative cosmetic active substances, SLVR'Coffee™, a versatile coffee silver skin extract, was released in 2022. The active components of this extract are mainly caffeine, cafestol and linoleate. After in vitro, in vivo and human tests, Mibelle Biochemistry found that this component has antioxidant, moisturizing, skin protection and other effects.Commenting on the collaboration with Amarey and the related innovations in ingredients and products, Gabriele Depta, Chief Research and Development Officer of the Intertely Group, said: "The 'open innovation' approach immediately connected us with Amarey and illycaffe, and we immediately embraced the project, resulting in strong synergies. To achieve the highest level of innovation and performance, Intertely invests in raw material development for the long term.In order to achieve sustainability and the value of 'Made in Italy', we have carried out several studies focusing on the possibility of using processed by-products of the food chain. Coffee butter is just the first example of this idea, and we're already working on more applications."According to Gabriele Depta, at the International Beauty Fair in Bologna, Italy, from March 21 to 24, Intertri and Amarey have officially showcased and sold the first coffee butter cream containing coffee silver skin extract. However, the application prospect of this ingredient and related products in the cosmetics industry remains to be tested by the market.